3 Boys & 2 Girls
2 girls & 2 boys now sold
All pups are changing colour, after long research I've decided pups colouring will be reverse bridle's, 2 with a small splash of white on their chin & chests, this colouring is rare in the UK.
Apricot colouring is just starting to show through their coats, 1st born boy is the strongest marked so far, (1st born boy pups colouring COULD completely change when around 18mths old to a much lighter colour of Puthe, Pale cream colour. Tittering a sort of apricot, only time will tell)
are now 9weeks old and are develping really well and now starting to look
and act like real poodles. Their
now running around causing havoc. 4th
worming programe this Sunday when 10weeks old on 12th June. All
pups are micro-chipped, 2 times clear health vet checked and will have
had both injection by
14th June ready for collection on 19th June onwards.
Visiting the pups is now available for viewing & collection from 19th June onwards.
PLEASE NO TIME WASTERS or DEALERS NEED APPLY.
Miss Pink below is our gorgeous
little girl, now called
Kiki (Bailstails Kiki Dee ) after mum.
Kiki showing off her new collar / lead set to match her mum's set.
(below) Galaxy (Bailstails Galaxy
Galaxy is doing so well in her new home, giving the family lots of fun & Laughs
plus keeping them well & truely on their toes.
George below (Bailstails George)
George is staying with us while his new mummy & family are on holiday,
George is going to be a very spoilt and much loved new addition to a lovely family.
George will join his new family on the 10th June.
Meet Denzel below (Bailstails
Denzel) going to his new home on the 20th June, he has been chosen by a
Denzel is going to be a much loved addition and spoilt plus have another poodle as a play mate.
Pictures below of the little boy pup available
This is Fleck below, the most gorgeous boy of the litter & upto so much mischief, he has stunning colouring of reverse apricot, loves tobe cuddled, lots of kiss's off this happy handsome boy, this boy will turn heads when older, looking for his forever home.
This is 1st born boy, this pictures gives a good idea on the pups colouring of Reverse Brindle, he's going to be a real head turner when fully grown.
Pic take 30th April.
Mucky pups after todays breakfast 30th April, they are all eating well now.
Rags the cat getting in on the act, pups now 5 days old as you can see DD has a great temperament and knows Rags wouldn't harm her baby's so stays very chilled.
DD pups taken at 3 days old, what a proud mummy.
Poor DD looks so tired, a well earned sleep
DD & Pup, taken a few hours after birth
DD, white/Apricot Parti
KC:: Parti Dee Va at Bailstails
KC :: K132964
Rare white apricot Parti
DNA tested Clear for prcd-PRA
BVA eye test for gPRA "passed"
Perfect Scissor bite
DeeDee has the most out going personality in a mini poodle I have
ever come across, Everything has to be done at 100 miles an hour, never met a dog
with so much energy and zest for life and training.
Misty's foundation work for agility is coming on great, my only problem will be if I can control of her speed and zest for working.
DD loves every one and other dogs, couldn't wish for a more affectionate loveing loyal dog.
I am very happy to announce that DeeDee passed her gPRA BVA eye test with flying colours, vet said she has perfect eyes and no sign of in-growing eye lashes.
Meet Woody, DD's intended
KC reg Crystalgorse Pioneer
DNA clear for prcd-PRA
Perfect Scissor bite.
A little about Woody
Woody has had a very successful show career following
in the footsteps of his mother, Grandmother & great grandmother. He has gained his stud book number.
Many of his offspring have been shown & he is
Dad to quite A few champions both here & in Europe, one of
his Grandsons has recently become a UK Champ.
Woody has always been very confident & friendly, very easy to train & always wanting to please, he has been doing agility now for the last 5 yrs, he loves competing & is a very happy boy. Although an excellent stud dog he is not in the least aggressive with other dogs, in fact he can be with a bitch in the morning & run with other entire males in the afternoon, he has a temperament to Die for.
If enquiring about a puppy from
DD (white/apricot parti) x Woody mating please give as much info
about yourself as possible, one line enquires will be deleted.
If you can't take the time to tell me about yourself and intended activities for a puppy from my breeding then you haven't the time for one of my puppies.
NO TIME WASTERS or DEALERS NEED APPLY
Puppies will be registered under my Bailstails kennel name on KC Activity register / certificate and 5 generation pedigree..
If interested in a pup from DD x Woody please contact
me with your details and intentions for pup, I will only sell to working
/ active pet homes and people at home most of the day.
NOT FULL TIME WORKERS
My e-mail contact details are
on web site home page
Puppy's are £450 regardless of male /
£100 non refundable deposit will be required then cash on collection of your choice of puppy.
Pup will be registered under my Kennel name "BAILSTAILS" on the KC activity register, they will come with a 5 gen pedigree, all copies of health tests from dam / sire, toy, food and 4wks insurance with the KC. full life time back up support.
Pups will have fab personalities just like Dam/Sire, they will make great agility prospects for possble small to medium or just great pets.
If interested please e-mail me with your intention
No one liners, give as much info about yourself, please scroll down to read the kind of questions I'll be asking of possible new owners.
Thanks for taking the time to read
PLEASE NO TIME WASTERS or DEALERS NEED APPLY
Bailstails Monster Inc ISDS 290468
Inc proven and available for stud to DNA tested bitches with good hips scores only, not above the BVA standard of 13
Bailstails Monster Inc ISDS
CEA/CH clear by parentage,
DNA tested clear for TNS and CL
PRA tested clear.
Gonioscopy eye tested for Glaucoma: unaffected
Height: approx 21" at the shoulder.
Perfect Scissor bite.
Inc was sired by Aled Owen's
World CH. Llangwym Bob ISDS 224454 and my Lucy Lastic @ Bailstails ISDS 267933., both duel reg.
Both dogs have great temperaments.
Both Bob/Lucy DNA tested Clear/Normal for CEA/CH, Lucy DNA tested Clear/Normal for TNS and CL.
Inc clear by parentage for CEA/CH.
These will be questionsIi ask of possible new owners, all reply's are private and for my use only.
1, Your full name, address and contact details.
2, Reference details of two people who know you well.
3, Are you first time collie/poodle owners.
4, Will puppy be for pet or work.
5, How secure/safe is your garden.
6, Who will have sole interest in training pup.
7, Where will puppy/dog live.
8, Preference dog/bitch
9, Do you work full/part time/stay at home.
10, Will puppy be left for long periods.
11, Your intended sport/activity for dog/puppy.
12, Do you have children under 5 years old.
Bailtails has produced Top (Grade 7) Agility dogs and BFA Flyball
Read all about them on Previous litters page.
My main aim is to breed for Health/Temperament/Speed/Drive
and most of all a Loyal/Loving family pet that fits in well with you and
your life style.
Breeding only occasionally we aim to produce dogs that are sound, have a good temperament with people and are perfectly at home with some type of Working environment Albeit Agility/Obedience/Working Trials or Sheep Work.
All previous owners of our
dogs are now our friends and give us regular pictures and updates on their progress and if you would like any information about our lines please don't hesitate to ask for references and contacts. What I ask of you
What I ask of you
Please be prepared as I do ask for references from people who know you well, I also need to know what field you intend to work you dog in and what kind of life it will lead.
Bailstails lines need to respect you and not be dominated by you, so do allow them to get things right while youngsters, positive handling is a great way to achieve these results what ever their age, so don't let them learn bad habits, I'm sure if you can do all of these things you will have a life time companion.
I do try to choose the right owners/homes for my dogs off-springs.
What these dogs will offer you
Pups from these mating should offer you 110% of themselves as they are highly INTELLIGENT and
come from strong proven working lines,
they should be very keen and biddable with not too strong an eye.
Inc x ???? progeny should have good (proportionate) eye that will not be too 'focused'...keen enough but not as much as would cause problems to working at other Disciplines other than Sheep work.
Read below for more information about puppies
Puppies should be of kindly temperament, be of athletic conformation, black/white or tri-coloured with coats of medium texture fur, and having semi tipped or prick ears.
Inc has been DNA-CEA/CH,TNS and CL tested, all Inc's results came back Clear/Normal: (meaning he will NEVER produce CEA/CH , TNS or CL carrier or affected pups.)....Inc PRA tested Normal/Clear,he is also Gonioscopy eye tested for Glaucoma: unaffected, he has also been BVA hips scored and we are more than pleased with his results, see above details/results.
What you will get with your new pup
Pups will be reared in the home, well socialized with people and ours/other dogs, used to all noises inside/outside the house. By use of sound DVD.
traveled from 4 weeks onwards, used to going/traveling in a cage, started
clicker training and part house Trained.
Puppies will be available to go to their new homes at 8 wk's old: micro-chipped, BVA eye-tested at 6weeks old and be Vet-health checked, all puppies will be K.C. or possible duel Registered, you can choose the name you want with Bailstails affix at start.
All pups will come with puppy pack, food, toy, progress sheet, 6 weeks free insurance & 5 generation pedigree.
you want one of these pups for sheep work I will need to get it ISDS registered,
please let me
know when applying for one of my breeding.
Might be suitable for pet homes
I usually only consider experienced collie owners who intend to work their dogs, but might consider an active Pet home so please do ask. If you think you may be interested in one of our puppies please bear in mind that border collies are not for the feint hearted; these dogs are bred with some aspect of work in mind so will require an active and stimulating lifestyle.
Great Temperament Speed/Drive and Willingness to work
If you feel you can handle a dog with a Great Temperament, Speed/Drive and Willingness to workand want's to please, contact me, Details below. If you are interested in putting your name on my puppy list just let me know by e-mail: email@example.com
Pups will be suitable for Agility/Obedience/Working Trials/Sheep Work and Active pet homes only
All puppies are sold with Breeding restrictions, when old enough, will have the restrictions lifted if you decide to breed after they have been given a suitable/satisfactory Hip score and DNA tested for CEA/CH.
Return Policy basis
All our puppies are sold on the strict understanding that they be returned if they cannot kept at any stage during their lifetimes, I would never want any of my pups/dogs ending up in a rescue-centre, I would rather rehome them myself to a suitable home.
Education for your new pup and training tips
Never blame your dog. If it goes it wrong, it is either the fault of your handling or a fault in your training of the dog. They only want to get it right. If the information we have trained into them or imparted to them on the day is wrong, it is our fault NOT theirs.
Always have a plan before you start any training session. Have
a clear idea about what you want to do and what you want to achieve. Never
blame the dog for your inconsistency or poor results. What you see in the
competition ring is normally the direct result of your training approach
Invest time into play. It can be play with a toy or just with you. It's a great bond enforcer as well as a brilliant form of praise. And remember to drop your shoulders and look disappointed can be as bad as screaming at your dog so finish every round with a smile.
One golden rule to use in my training is that no matter where you are in the course, your body language should be reinforcing what you are saying/instructing the dog to do. If it is not, you cannot blame the dog for perhaps choosing the wrong obstacle or making an error.
Always teach my dogs to read from verbal commands, and body language acts as reinforcement, not guidance. I know my dogs are far quicker than I am, and I want them to be 100% confident that they have my trust and belief when they are working the course, and making vital decisions based on my instructions. If they have that confidence, I know they will attack every element of that course without any doubt.
Make it fun and never blame the dog for your handling and training mistakes.
If you are sick of finding biscuit crumbs and lumps of frankfurter in the lining of your pockets, buy a treat bag and fix it to your belt or waist band. Keeps your clothes clean and stops you smelling like the dog's dinner!
Be Fair - before criticising your dog remember who taught it!
The next time you get annoyed that your dog has not followed your instruction and you are ready to accuse it of being naughty, remember who trained it ? The fault almost certainly lies with you.
Train hard, train every day, learn all possible agility positions and movements, then train some more! Sort out all your arms and legs, get them doing the right signal at the right time in the right place, do this again and again... on your own with an imaginary dog. Then ask your dog if you are good enough to join him and have fun together!
Learn from your dog in training. When he goes in the 'wrong' direction, realize that you have cued him incorrectly. You should not withhold from rewarding the dog when it is the handlers error. How many times does a sequence go wrong and you go back, change your handling and try again without rewarding your dog?
This part gives you some basics on the
bringing up of your puppies.
The following exercises are just supposed to serve you as helpful hints in the education of your dog. On the book market there is a lot of literature on the various educational methods that you and your puppy can make use of. On top of that there are play schools and imprinting days for dogs that you should give a try and attend with your puppy. You can learn a whole lot about your dog and his education there. For the following exercises, the timing, the correct confirmation and proper repetition of the exercises are most important. In between the single lessons you should play with your puppy so he will not lose pleasure in learning.
Leading on the leash:
You can get puppies used to leash and
collar early on.
Approximately from the tenth week on they should know both collar and leash and not struggle against them any more. Start out with a lightweight collar. When putting it on, take care that two fingers will fit easily in between the collar and the dog's neck. At the beginning, do not put the collar on for more than fifteen minutes, then take it off again. If the puppy tolerates that, you can extend the time gradually until he is not bothered by the collar any longer. During the first few exercises you should have a close eye on the little one since he will try to get rid of the unpleasant thing around his neck. It is a good idea to combine the exercise with a game in order to distract the dog's attention so that he will not mind it any longer.Getting used to the collar is as important as getting used to the leash. As soon as the puppy is not bothered by the collar any more, start putting on a light leash and let him run around and play with it for a while. When he is no longer hassled by the long thing hanging down, take the leash in your hand and keep playing with the dog. At any rate, avoid straining at the leash and pulling the puppy along with you because otherwise he will definitely develop an aversion to being on the leash. Again you should gradually extend the exercising time. The leash is a good support when you are playing with the puppy. Whenever you call him you can make him come with a slight pull on the leash, unless he comes by himself.
Stand in front of your dog with a treat in your hand. Show it to him but do not let him have it. Then lift your hand over your head to the back. The puppy will most likely sit down. As he does so, give him the order "Sit!". As soon as the dog sits down, give him the treat as well as approval of what he did. Then stop the exercise and play with him. Within a short time, repeat the exercise. After some exercise the dog will already act according to the verbal order. Then you can start to extend the sitting time.
This exercise will be most successful with a treat as well. Show your puppy the treat, but this time, move your hand towards the ground. The dog will follow you with his nose. As soon as he starts lying down, give him the order "Lie down!" and when he has done so let him have the treat. Just like sitting, staying down can be extended.
The order "Stay" is meant to make the dog stay in the position that you told take up. You have to carry out this exercise very carefully, because the puppy can quickly get the feeling of being left alone and get a shock. It would be best to train this in the presence of an experienced dog trainer or else the dog might show a unintended but normal reaction.
This order tells the dog, that he is supposed to walk right beside you. Usually the dog walks on his leaders' left. Start the exercise with making the dog sit on your left. Take the leash loosely into your hand give him the command "Heel". Walk a few steps with your dog. If he walks beside you nicely, give him approval of his action and a treat. Then stop walking and make the dog sit next to you. In the beginning keep your dog on short leash in order to show him the position next to you which you want him to keep during this exercise.If are successful in this, extend the number of steps and loosen the leash bit by bit to make him learn to walk beside you on the leash without strain. Again, approval and subsequent play are indeed important.
Actually dogs should never be left alone for a longer period. But it is necessary for the dog to learn that being alone for some time is ok and that you will always be back. Start teaching him that after having played with your dog for some time or gone for an ample walk with him. Then the dog will be tired and probably he will even sleep. Start leaving him alone for short periods of time like five or ten minutes. Then go to your dog, acknowledge his patience and play with him. Practise this with your dog once a day. If he is able to stay alone for that period proceed in extending the time for another ten minutes. Then play with him and show him that you are satisfied. If the dog starts whining, ignore his whimpering. As soon as the dog stops wailing, go in and reinforce him. In no case you should storm in and yell at the dog, as despite the negative experience of being yelled at, some dogs perceive an unintended connection as follows: "Whenever I whine, someone comes in and I am no longer alone." Furthermore, you should see to it that the dog has emptied his bowels. Anyway, Should there be a puddle or a small pile of muck when you come back, this is your fault and not the dog's. Clean the spot and take better care next time. You should never punish the dog, because he is not able remember what he did. As he sees it, you punish him for the joy he feels to see you.
History of Border Collies
Initially, the Border Collie comes from
the border counties between Scotland and England.
Very early (ca. 1750) one can find black and white dogs that are very similar to today's Border. These dogs are known for their huge herding drive and intelligence. In that region they were bred for the working sheep.
The first well-known dog that comes up
to the Border was "Old Hemp". He was born in 1893 and comes from farmer
A. Telfer's breed. This strong black and white dog did not need any training
in herding and with ease won every trial.
As a result, the descendants of "Old Hemp" were much in demand among the shepherds and so spread in the entire region. Every Border Collie of today can be traced back to that dog.
Today, apart from the British Islands there are also very many Borders in New Zealand and Australia, since the sheep population there is also very high. In addition to working cattle, the Border today has many other tasks, for example in sports for dogs and as a help to handicapped persons.
What is a Border Collie?
Border Collies have their origin in many
generations of dogs that have been selected according to their capability
to work cattle.
The express "Border" in the name of the breed arises from the pastureland in the border counties between Scotland and England. There, the dogs were mostly used for working cattle. "Collie" is probably deduced from the Celtic word for "useful".
If you watch a Border Collie working,
there are not only the intelligence and elegance to be admired, but in
some way also the masterpiece of the genes that have developed under human
influence.A Border is a dog that works with a master as a replacement for
the pack. A dog with all instincts to round-up and to stalk on the quiet
like a wolf, but also a dog that still accepts the commands of his master
and protects the cattle. A dog with an enormous speed, staying power and
mobility that can quasi think with his paws and walk on a blade of grass.
A dog whose strength of will and whose hypnotising eye can intimidate animals
of multiple heights.
If you have seen all this, you get an impression of what the Border Collie is able to achieve by the right training and handling and it soon becomes explicit why two short walks a day will never be sufficient to meet the needs of this breed.
Many behaviour patterns of the Border Collie are not bad or abnormal but are just deeply routed in the instincts of the breed. These behaviours cannot simply be filtered out of the dog, but have to be brought adequately in train. There have to be found ways to direct these behaviours into the right channels.
Typical behavioural patterns:
The term "eying" indicates the fixing look of the dog which is to set an object in motion. Everything that is in focus of the dog can elicit eyeing (e.g. shades, lights, cars, animals, children). Every time the fixed object moves, the dog experiences a confirming sense of achievement. The dog thinks that he has elicited the movement. Sometimes the very expectation of such reinforcement is enough for a dog to fixate the object for a long time.
It is important for a shepherd that a dog works quickly, e.g. while pursuing sheep that are breaking out. The drive to chase a breaking out animal naturally also exists in the everyday life of a dog, which is bothersome and annoying to the "non-shepherd". This is primarily the case when the dog for lack of occasions passes over to chasing people, cars or other. From the point of view of the dog, he is not done with his work as long as the object has not come to a stand. Eyeing and chasing often take place in repeating procedures.
Working sheep is the basic component of a working Border Collie. The dog draws the sheep together to bring them to the desired place more easily. This way they are more compact and easier to handle for him. Sheep that break out or stay back in the process are instantly brought back. This is a remnant of the natural techniques of hunting of the wolf. In everyday life, that happens for example if the dog encircles the children of the five year old daughter's birthday party and keeps them together in a corner or when the dog is for a walk with people and other dogs and again the Border Collie steadily tries to encircle them.
If a Border Collie catches for a sheep with his teeth that is called gripping: Gripping can serve to drive as well as to retain the sheep. You also have to keep this in mind when a dog "pricks" a walker in the heels who stayed behind "his group".
Dominant and aggressive behavior:
A weak and shy dog would never effectively work on a flock. The breed was created to drive and direct animals by willpower and decisiveness alone. Thus, many Border Collies are quite dominant and go-getting. This has to be considered concerning the schooling and the organization of the family pack. It often comes about that the Border Collie only obeys one master and works only for him. He will only rudimentarily obey other persons in the household. This has to be worked at, so that the dog will know which position he has inside the ranking of the family pack. It is up to the owner which position the dog inhabits in the ranking. In some cases, aggression can lead to substantial problems if it is not handled right. The reasons for aggression in the Border Collie are very complex and diverse, e.g. hereditary predisposition, stress, anxiety.
Are you the right person for a Border Collie "yes or no"?!
Nobody likes to hear that he is not the
adequate owner for a dog or a breed even if he likes them particularly.Unfortunately,
the expectations of the owner and reality of living together are a bit
If there are problems with a dog, we tend to attribute the origin to the dog and not to search for it in ourselves. A good care for your dog starts with finding the breed that is the aptest for your individual circumstances of life and your characteristics.
In most cases, the Border Collie is not the proper dog if:
1. you never had a dog before
2. you don't have much time for walks
3. you have very young children
4. you are older and not very active
5. you are often out of house and can't take the dog with you
But there are also cases where people
succeed in giving their dog a happy life by much dedication, knowledge
and determinedness to deal with the breed. After all, both sides could
have been spared of many letdowns if the above rules had been considered
Apart from these basic matters, the individual personality is another factor. Border Collies are quick in thinking and moving and as an owner you have to be capable of foreseeing them even quicker to be able to control their working drives. You can spare long marches if you are able to make out the first onset of chasing behavior and instantly to command "lie down" before the dog is far away in the distance. So if you can't quickly foresee things, you should be a good walker.
A Border Collie needs a leader, who can give the dog the feeling that he always does the right thing for the person because this is what a Border Collie wants to. You have to be able to be consequent even if it was simpler not to have to be so. You have to know how to bring out the best in the dog. Someone who does not possess these character attributes has to laboriously learn them.
Border Collies Coat colours
Information about the genetic back-ground of coat colours can be found in Genetics of coat colours and other exterior properties.
The colour of the eye should be brown with all coat colours; excepting the merle colours were (partially) blue eyes are permitted.
This is the most common colour. As with
all other colours the preferred pattern has a white blaze that continues
over the top of the head into the white area in the neck, a white end of
the tail, white fore legs up till the elbow and white socks on the hind
The black has been replaced by a dark
brown colour. In the USA for example this colour is called red/white, but
to prevent confusion with other reddish colours choclate or brown is a
A lot rarer are red/white or yellow/white
Border Collies. The markings should be the same as with black/white dogs.
A lot of shades of this colour exist with just as many names: blond, cream,
red, yellow. Because of the fact that all eumelanin pigment is surpressed
and the tan pigment of the tricolour is caused by the same (although local)
lack of eumelanin the combination red/white and tricolour is not visible.
Because the colour chocolate brown is called red in the USA yellow/white is probably a better description for this colour.
The black colour is diluted and has become blue-grey. This colour is also called 'Slate' which describes the colour rather well. The colour is rather rare.
The chocolate brown colour can be diluted into a 'lilac' colour.
This colour looks a bit like a dark Red/white,
but is quite different. Sable is actually a pattern where (part of) the
hairs have dark tips (also seen in e.g. shelties and collies).
Tan (brownish) markings along the outside
of the the coloured parts and above the eyes are specific for this pattern.
The width of the markings and the intensity of the colour can vary
This pattern can be combined with black, blue, chocolate brown and merle.
This pattern looks a bit like the tricolour, the the tan parts are bigger and has no specific patterns on the head. The dark colour is limited to a saddle shaped patch on the back.
This effect is known in many breeds.
The black parts have been replaced by grey and black patterns in many shades.
When both parents are merle part of the offspring inherits this trait from both sides and become "double merles".
Blue Merle/Red Merle
Very rare. The same effect as with the Blue Merle, except that the base colour is chocolate brown.
Sable Merle/Red Merle
Although it is genetically possible to produces a sable merle, it is rather difficult in practice. The pattern is only visible in the puppy coat. After the dog has his final coat the Merle pattern is almost impossible to see. To prevent these dogs from being mated to other merles it is advisable not to mix sable and merle.
Some names are used for variations on
the colours (or patterns) described above.
Not a real colour or pattern, but used
for a quite white marking on the head.
They come even whiter; in the extremely white Border Collie no or hardly any coloured markings are present. The dog in this picture only has black ears and a black spot on the base of his tail; he is a perfect illustration for the sw-gene.
This pattern consists of freckles in the white parts of the coat. Can be combined with all coat colours. The pattern is also called Ticked.
BVA UK hip scoring System Guideline.
The current UK average for border collies is 13. This system of scoring varies around the world.
26-35 Mild Dysplacia
36-50 Moderate Dysplacia
51-106 Servere Dysplacia
Help on CEA/CH
Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA), also known as Choroidal Hypoplasia (CH), is an inherited eye disorder which stops the choroid developing normally. Dogs can be examined at a young age (between 5 and 8 weeks) with an opthalmoscope, and in many cases CEA can be diagnosed if present. Severe cases can lead to loss of vision, although rarely result in total blindness.
Research at Cornell University and at The Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center uncovered the disease gene, and the disease causing mutation. The mutation follows the inherited recessive pattern, I.e. the parents of an affected offspring must at least carry the mutation themselves (they could also be affected). Due to the discovery of the gene, a DNA test is possible to determine not only affected dog, but also carriers of the disease (in whom the disease will never be present, but who may pass the mutation onto their offspring). Our Software makes use of the results of this DNA test to infer probabilities of being affected or carrying the mutation. The result of dogs whose genotype is known (either through a DNA test or by being diagnosed affected by a vet) appears with a thick outline in the genetic propagation diagram. For these dogs, the word Tested appears in the corresponding CEA field. Probabilities for untested dogs are inferred automatically and are presented with a thin outline in the genetic propagation diagram.
The below table shows the average outcome of all the possible matings:
|Affected Dam||All the puppies will be Affected||Half the puppies will be Carriers
Half the puppies will be Affected
|All the puppies will be Carriers|
|Carrier Dam||Half the puppies will be Carriers
Half the puppies will be Affected
|A quarter of the puppies will be Normal
Half the puppies will be Carriers
A quarter of the puppies will be Affected
|Half the puppies will be Normal
Half the puppies will be Carriers
|All the puppies will be Carriers||Half the puppies will be Normal
Half the puppies will be Carriers
|All puppies will be Normal|